Yesterday's Bettane & Desseauve tasting was in Tavel, known throughout the wine loving world for
it's characterful rosés. Ask a vigneron in Tavel and they will tell you that they should be considered apart from all other rosés, for Tavel is a wine to be enjoy at table, not quaffed on a sun-soaked terrace. I say you should enjoy Tavel any way you please, especially given the quality of the wines I tasted yesterday!
It's a very interesting appellation, with 3 very distinct terroirs. The western-most part of the appellation is on a limestone covered slope that descends into the village. The stones that are locally called "lauzes" blanket the vineyards, giving the impression that the vines are growing on the surface of the moon. This terroir tends to give the wines a trademark flintiness that is easily recognizable as Tavel.
The second terroir at the bottom of this valley is covered with the famous "gallets roulés" that are also found in Châteaunuef-du-Pape. As Vincent de Bez, director of Château d'Aqueria explained to me, the difference between Châteauneuf du Pape and Tavel is that below those big round river rocks in Tavel there is only 3 - 4 meters of red clay and then it turns to a sandy subsoil. In Chateauneuf du Pape, the red clay is 8 meters deep and then there is blue clay which is impermeable, meaning that the moisture is locked in. This means that in Tavel the moisture drains out and the terroir is hotter in a sense.
Finally, there is the ancient riverbed that is mostly sand with a bit of clay, this lends to a bit more feminine style of Tavel, more floral, lots of fruit and well-balanced acidity. I was lucky enough to taste through 18 different Tavels yesterday, what an experience. It's harder to taste through a series of rosés than it is reds, it takes more time, but in the end the styles are quite different. The wines of Tavel are very much worth discovering, if you have the chance, try a bottle, it will bring a little bit of Provençal sun to your cold winter nights! Today it's off to Vacqueyras, mmmmmmmmmmm!